by Wayne Roberts, Rod McRae and Lori Stahlbrand
review by Rebecca Bucsko
“Real Food For A Change” is an upbeat and easy to read journey into the land of organic food in Canada. The authors present the case for organic food production and consumption, and outline subsequent benefits for personal health, society and the environment. “Real Food” educates the reader about the current state of food production in Canada, and presents new ways to understand the interconnection between food and the community, between food consumption and environmental impacts. Ideas are backed up by diverse and inspiring examples of food production and use, food to build healthier individuals, healthier communities and a healthier planet. Practical suggestions abound.
The book introduces the authors ideas of the ‘elements of real food’: health, joy, justice and nature. The case for organic foods is made immediately – and readers are asked to leave their concerns regarding cost and availability at the door. This is a good strategy as it ducks the most commonly sited concerns people hold regarding organic foods.
Chapter One opens with 10 Reasons to Eat Organic, and they are compelling reasons: Organic food is anxiety-light and has nothing to hide; it’s delicious, more nutritious and better for your children; it’s processed properly and available in great variety; organics can offer a different shopping experience; it’s not using hidden experimental technology; it’s not subsidized. These themes are revisited and explained more thoroughly throughout the remaining text.
The industrial and organic farming methods for basic essential foods such as fruits and vegetables, grain, milk, beef and fish are compared and contrasted. The reader learns of an alarming network of toxicity, disease, inhumane practices, and absurd government subsidies that support an unsustainable Canadian agricultural industry. Monocultures and factory farming rule, despite their inherent susceptibility to pests and sickness, environmental degradation, community health risk and economic weakness.
Thankfully the examples presented in each category highlight organic success stories that show a steady return to forward-thinking alternative agricultural methods. Take beef as an example. Respected cattleman Lloyd Quantz says about his conversion of his million-dollar-a-year Alberta ranch to organic, “Nature has a better idea about diversity. Hybrid vigour is what makes for fertility, longevity and resistance to disease” (p43). He shuns artificial insemination, practices rotational grazing, believes in smaller farms for greater financial stability and supportive rural community infrastructure. He reports significantly lower vet and drug bills and healthier cattle. The story presents Quantz’s concern about consumers who demand plastic-wrapped, fresh-killed meat, a demand that drives the “feedlots from hell” (p46) that are the incubators of bacteria-related illnesses. This example shares the onus for organic beef on both the farmer and the consumer.
Chapter One wraps up with suggestions on how to buy organic, and presents themes of organic labeling, buying locally or directly from the farmer, avoiding genetically altered foods and limiting animal fats and factory-farmed fish consumption.
The next chapter focuses on ‘eating smarter’, and presents a “new home economics (that) will be at the centre of the move to organics” (p61). This is where commonly held concerns regarding cost, availability, preparation time and acceptance are addressed. Suggestions include shopping locally where you can develop a relationship with your grocer; buying low-fad foods for best value; buying food when it’s in season for maximum nutrition and minimal cost; using all parts of food to minimize waste; and viewing the cost of organics as a long term investment in your health. Practical ideas to take control of your own food production include cutting out the middle man and buying directly from the farm, and developing profit centres in your own kitchen, on your window sill, on a walk in a meadow and in your garden. Community supported agriculture (CSA) is discussed, including urban community gardens.
The authors’ favourite low-cost foods that deliver high value are listed, including garlic, soy, whole grain breads and oats. Other tips include making home-made baby food, hosting dinner clubs to share food, work and social time, and buying ‘off-grade’ produce.
Breast-feeding is encouraged for proper nutrition, infant health and social benefits.
Most suggestions in this chapter are practical and relatively easy to consider and apply. Some suggestions are out of the reach of the vast majority of readers, no matter how well presented. For example, the economics used to support a 4-day work week may add up in print, but popular culture will have to evolve for this concept to be applicable for most employees. Hopefully an updated version of “Real Food”, if forthcoming, will provide examples of the application of this concept.
Chapter Three highlights the strengths and opportunities we have as citizens and consumers, to effect changes in Canadian food production and distribution. These strategies include boycotts of unacceptable products (i.e. genetically modified foods) and ‘buycotts’ of progressive products that need support to secure market attention (i.e. fare-trade). The support of niche markets for healthy alternatives in turn supports small operators who cater naturally to these niches, and can subsequently push for change at the next level. Alternative industrial uses for natural materials and food byproducts provoke creative consideration.
“Avoid Gassy Foods”, the final chapter, links Canada’s “conventional food production and distribution (to the production of)…about 25% of the gases”(p157) that contribute to the greenhouse effect, despite farming’s clean image. The authors proceed to deconstruct this statistic, considering energy use on the farm, in processing and packaging, in transport, at retailers, at the consumer level, and lastly in waste management. Every polluting level of the process is government subsidized, and some policy changes to reduce or remove these subsidies are suggested.
On the citizen / consumer level, recommendations to reduce energy waste include eating raw food, buying energy efficient appliances and using all parts of food to reduce waste. Alternative lifestyle ideas including straw bale homes and de-mechanized farming are proposed.
“Real Food” concludes that food is powerful: it’s powerful because every change counts, it’s powerful because it reaffirms the individual; it’s powerful because it brings people together. The power of agriculture lies in it’s ability to provides employment and spreads the benefits around (what the authors call serendipity); it’s also adaptable, generous and humble.
To the authors credit, Real Food is not a pressure sales pitch nor does it lure the reader into feelings of guilty consumerism. The reader is reassured numerous times that changes can be made on the smallest individual level, and shows that even such seemingly inconsequential changes can and do make a difference at all levels of their community. Many real-life examples support the ideas outlined throughout the book.
Overall, the book speaks well to the type of reader who is drawn to this type of publication, who likely already possesses awareness of a number of the huge range of ideas expressed and has started making changes in their lifestyle. They will find many applicable ways to continue to work towards a more organic consumer lifestyle. Some of the more ‘radical’ suggestions, such as 4-day work weeks, will be beyond the scope of most readers.
The neglect shown by the Canadian government, in addressing public health concerns of issues such as genetically modified foods, toxicity in the agriculture industry, and in the subsidies that are available to polluting agribusiness but not to organic farmers, may surprise many readers (the reviewer included). Policy makers would benefit from consideration of the alternatives laid out in “Real Food”.
Farmers have, for years, been driven to the brink of bankruptcy trying to keep pace with the industrialization of commercial farming in Canada, squeezed by higher production costs and lower returns. This audience could also benefit from the ideas and the real-life examples found in “Real Food”.
Since “Real Food” was published in 1999, mad-cow disease and the Walkerton water supply tragedy have impacted the consciousness of Canadian citizens coast to coast, and shaken our confidence in the government and food producers to protect our health and provide healthy food. Conversely, progress has been made in the availability of organic food. Neighbourhood organic grocers are opening across the country, Loblaws has established a growing line of green food products, and Whole Foods Organic super-store has spread into Canada. “Real Food” grows more timely as the years pass and the cracks start to show in the current unsustainable food production industry in Canada. The book’s upbeat tone and practical suggestions make it a ‘must read’ for those serious about improving their health and the well-being of their community and environment.
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